Sunday, August 21

After some needed rest, we're off to the western slope of Mount Kilimanjaro - Tembo Camp in the Sinya Wildlife Management Area.  First we had to get there – that meant getting acquainted with the dust.  This little town is about ten miles from the camp – everything is covered with rest dust – even the trees look red – this should be as interesting time.

Sinya protects the wildlife migratory corridor between the Amboseli National Park in Kenya and the Tarangire National Park in southern Tanzania.  Its only inhabitants are nomadic members of the Maasai tribe, some of whom were on hand to welcome us.  Note they are wearing sandals made of old motorcycle tires.

There’s plenty of space here for wildlife and the Maasai to co-exist, but there have been some instances of disease spreading from livestock to wildlife populations.  This creates friction between those who protect the wildlife and those who want to protect the Maasai and their traditional way of life in their ancestral homelands.

Tembo Camp is a semi-permanent tented camp located on a 75,00-acre private Maasai preserve.  The camp is on a bluff overlooking a dry river bed.  The largest structure on site is the group dining tent, which sits under a large tree and overlooks the surrounding countryside. 

The camp has a solar powered electrical system - enough to power two light bulbs in each tent.  A well provides sanitary water, but drinking water comes in bottles.  Warm water for showers comes from solar-powered hot water heaters – we’re hoping for sunny days.

Our tent has all the comforts of home – comfy beds and lots of “windows” to catch the breeze.  Behind the curtain is the fully equipped bathroom.

 There’s even a go-away bird perched in the tree full of the hanging nests of the weaver bird - he (or she) had lots to say about us being there.  More colorful, and equally vocal, were the superb starlings who hoped for a handout.  

From the campsite, we caught early morning and late afternoon glimpses of Mount Kilimanjaro, a dormant volcano just south of the equator on the border of Kenya and Tanzania.  It is the highest peak in Africa and the tallest free-standing mountain in the world, at 19,336 feet.  There's snow on the summit, though it's shrinking rapidly due to global warming - it's expected to be ice-free in another 10 to12 years. 

After lunch, we set off on an educational walk with two Maasai guides – Lucas and William.  From them we began to learn about the Maasai people and their traditions. 

Here’s Lucas perched on a termite hill and William describing the medicinal uses of a certain plant.  One could spend a day just learning about medicinal herbs and termite mounds.  These little critters have a very complex society; they provide food to many birds and animals, and their empty mounds provide homes for others.

The Maasai also have a complex society – they are a semi-nomadic people living in small villages in Kenya and northern Tanzania.  They are known for their signature garb – red plaid blankets draped over the shoulder, intricate beaded jewelry, sandals crafted from old tires, and tribal markings such as circles branded in each cheek and gaping holes in earlobes.    

Cattle are the primary basis of a Maasai's health, wealth, and social status.  The more cattle a man has, the richer he is, the better fed his family, and the more respect he commands.  The other key measure of wealth is children, and Maasai men traditionally were encouraged to take several wives - a very practical adaptation to high infant and warrior mortality rates.  Both Lucas and William assured us that they had only one wife each … so far.

After our walk, we headed back to camp in time for campfire, a glimpse of zebras at the waterhole near the dining tent, some star-gazing, and a delicious meal.  The dinner menu included potato soup, salad, red cabbage, rice, pork, lentils, zucchini, and bread.  Caramel custard and pineapple cake for dessert, plus drinks on the house.  We could get used to this …